Sunday, January 27, 2013

Welcome to Ouakam, Out Goes the Power!


I arrived at my home-stay family’s house last Friday night after a whirlwind week of orientation.  We spent this past week registering for classes, learning some customs of Senegal, eating around the bowl, getting to know each other, and stumbling through our survival Wolof classes.  This past week I have come to realize the inherent differences between Senegalese culture and American culture, in-fact, at times, they are completely opposite.  I am going to highlight two of the contrasts here:

Greeting Each Other
 In the United States, especially Washington D.C., the concept of greeting other on the street is completely foreign.  We wander around, well more like race around our days with our heads to the pavement just trying to speed to the next meeting or appointment.  However, in Senegal the concept of greeting one another is one of the most important values.  It comes from the idea of Nit, Nitay Garamba, which translates into “every person is another person’s tree.”  The Senegalese believe that we were brought into life by the hands of humans, and the hands of humans bury us; therefore, being around humans is the most important aspect of life.  Not saying hello, either in French or Wolof, to every person you see is considered rude and others assume you are mad or upset.  Similarly, once you greet someone, a conversation of substance will often ensue.  The other day a few of us were walking on the beach and met a man who we then spoke to for the next 30 minutes.  In Senegal everyone is friends and therefore we must say Bonjour, ça va? or Salamaalekum, Nanga def? to all of our friends.

Terranga=Hospitality
            The Senegalese are some of the most hospitable people in the world.  However, they might not be hospitable in an American sense.  When you enter a home, if the mother is making dinner she will stop everything and talk to her guest because they are the most important thing.  Senegalese are never alone, and a Senegalese household is never empty.  There are constantly neighbors, cousins, and friends over for conversation, sharing meals, or simply to enjoy each other’s company.  In Senegal a person’s wealth is measured by how much they give and how much they are given.  This concept is known as Am-Am, and is by far my favorite thing I have learnt in Senegal thus far.  I love the idea of a world based on giving to one another, where wealth is based on hospitality and kindness rather than material aspects.

As I said before, I moved into my homestay last night.  I am living in the Ouakam neighborhood, which is about an hour walk from my program center in Mermoz or a 20 minutes bus or car rapide ride.  The car rapides are best described as a mini bus version of a roller coaster.  The cars are mini yellow buses decorated to the tilt with colorful paintings, streamers, and most of them with the saying “Alhamdulilaay” (Praise be the God) painted on the front.  I am excited to become a pro car rapide rider. 
My family is smaller than most Senegalese families, at least currently, because my host brother Moustaphaa is studying in Paris, and my two sisters are married and live in other neighborhoods.  However, they both have young children who I can’t wait to meet!  I share the house with my mother, Mama Marie, my father Tidiane and my 26 year old sister Thiané, oh and we have a pet goat named Mouton!  It is an adorable quaint house with a nice patio area in the back (where the goat lives).  Last night about an hour after my arrival the power went out, but it was fun.  My host sister, mom and I looked through family pictures by candlelight and talked.  Luckily the power came back on right as we were preparing dinner!  Random power outages, another thing to get used to in Africa.  My homestay family has also turned me onto Tea, well Senegalese tea.  There are two national teas of Senegal, Kimkelibam and Ataaya.  Kimkelibam is delicious and is normally for after breakfast. My family used mint from our backyard for the tea!  Ataaya is more common and normally taken around 7pm.  It is served in three separate small servings, the first is bitter, the second more sweet and the third the sweetest.  The process for making it is very complicated, but it is delicious!


  


Yoff Beach


My room!


The Family Sheep


The Most Western Point of Africa


Le Monument de la Renaissance Africaine


The Mosque next door to my house



My cousin Moussa making the traditional tea, Ataaya


The Downtown Market


In front of the President (Macky Sall's) House


How many Toubabs can you fit on the bus?


I only have wifi at my house if my “mean” neighbor, as my Mom called him decides to turn it on, so I apologize in advance for my late responses, especially on the weekends!

Monday, January 21, 2013

Roof Sheep and Swimming Horses

Yes you heard me right, since being in Dakar for less than 24 hours I have seen both sheep on a roof and a horse swimming, well more being pulled into the water than swimming.

I arrived in Sénégal at 11:30pm last night with 7 of my new friends after sitting on a plane being de-iced for 2 hours.  It was all worth it though.  Everything here so far has been an adventure from sleeping with no blanket, to enjoying one of the most stunning beaches I have ever seen.
This morning we had a basic orientation session with our group of 42.  As our resident director Serigne said, we are all from different places with different backgrounds but this experience has brought us together and so far we all get along swimmingly!

After our french placement exam this afternoon we wandered to the beach, about a 10 minute walk, where we enjoyed the "waves" and were intrigued by the hoards of men working out.  Everyone has been extremely friendly so far and we are quickly learning how to avoid cars as we cross the busy streets (pedestrians don't have the right of way here).

I will probably post again once I am placed in my home-stay family on Friday but until then, Dakar is vibrant, lively, chaotic, and wonderful.

Friday, January 18, 2013

Dakar Demain!!!

Well technically I arrive the day after tomorrow (Sunday) but I leave tomorrow morning at 8am.  I think I have passed the nerves stage and now I am just incredibly excited and ready to go!
I am all packed and checked into my flight.  It will be a long 27 hours of traveling between Seattle, Newark, and Brussels but my arrival in Dakar on Sunday night will make everything worth it.


“But that's the glory of foreign travel, as far as I am concerned. I don't want to know what people are talking about. I can't think of anything that excites a greater sense of childlike wonder than to be in a country where you are ignorant of almost everything. Suddenly you are five years old again. You can't read anything, you have only the most rudimentary sense of how things work, you can't even reliably cross a street without endangering your life. Your whole existence becomes a series of interesting guesses.” 


I can't wait for the unknown.

Also I just found this Dakar food blog that will definitely come in handy in the next 4 months!

http://dakareats.wordpress.com/

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

No One Sweats Alone


The easiest way to describe the spectacular past week I had on GW's Alternative Break to Nicaragua, is to break it down by our schedule.  Here is a typical day at El Coco Loco and working with Waves of Hope:

7am Get out of bed to enjoy a beautiful yoga class taught by Christine in the two story yoga cabana


8am Enjoy an amazing breakfast of eggs, gallo pinto, homemade bread, and the most delicious homemade peanut butter you have ever tasted.

8:45 Off to the worksite where we would split the group between refurbishing Manzanillo Primary School and working on the Bodega for the High school


One of our favorite activities: Mixing Cement by hand


Day 2 at the high school site


Daniela and Michelle touching up blue paint at Manzanillo 


A view of Manzanillo Primary School 


Day three: the walls are coming together (notice the dog)


Building rebar for the Bodega Walls by hand


Day 5: the Bodega is coming together


Day 5: Carlos basking in the clean and finished Manzanillo Classrooms

12pm Head back to El Coco Loco for lunch and siesta in one of the many hammocks 

2pm Head back to the worksite, except on Tuesday and Thursday when it was time for Kids Club.  At Kids Club, kids up to age 13 come from all over the community to read, play soccer and do arts and crafts.  These were the kids who would go to school at Manzanillo Primary school and later at the High School.



Reading Harry Potter in Spanish to the Kids


Michelle dancing with one of the Kids


Dance Party


The Nicaraguans killing the "Gringoes" in soccer


Lounging in the hammocks at Kids Club

4:30pm Play Volleyball with our group or the local Nicaraguans our age

5:45pm Watch the beautiful sunset



6:30pm Dinner time, which at El Coco Loco means feast time where we ate freshly caught fish, stuffed veggies and always had some kind of delicious dessert.

8pm Reflection under the stars

On Saturday we left for Granada with Carlos, Kathia, Lisseth and Francisco, locals of El Manzano Uno who we had spent all week getting to know.  We went zip-lining, explored the beautiful city of Granada, ate some questionable food, and went dancing.  It was very difficult to say goodbye to the four of them at the airport on Sunday but made easier by knowing a new group of GW students would be back next year!

We spent the past week working hard, mixing cement, painting a school, building a bodega, driving in old trucks, eating delicious food, walking the beach, learning how to surf, taking yoga classes, stumbling through Spanglish conversations (well some of us), getting rid of giant spiders, learning space facts, playing so much volleyball, sweating in the heat, making cow sounds with Kathia, joking around with Carlos, making tortillas with Guilhermina, learning how Waves of Hope and El Coco Loco came together from Jamie and Ben, bonding as a group throughout the week, and most importantly building a long last relationship with the community of El Manzano Uno.

I cannot thank Waves of Hope, Jamie and Ben, the community of El Manzano Uno, Michael, Sarah, Michelle, Kelts, and all of our participants enough for making last week one of the most inspiring, eye-opening and best weeks of my life!  


The whole group including Francisco, Carlos, Kathia and Lisseth.


Michael, Sarah and I with Jamie and Ben
two of the smartest, most amazing people I have ever met


My 17 new, weird and wonderful friends








Thursday, January 3, 2013

And So It Begins



For the past three weeks I have been finishing up my semester at GW, saying goodbye to friends and preparing for my travels.  In two days my seven months of traveling will begin and I could not be more nervous, curious, but most importantly excited.  This is generally what my next seven months will look like:

January 5th-January 14th George Washington Alternative Break Trip to Nicaragua
Since last February I have been lucky enough to plan an alternative break trip to Nicaragua with two of my best friends, Sarah Carson and Michael Wasserman, and in two days our dream will be a reality.  We will be working with an non-profit organization called Waves of Hope located in El Manzano Uno, about 30 minutes from Chinandega, Nicaragua.  Our group made up of 17 students and two GW faculty members will be doing a variety of activities such as: working with the the community to build their first high school, helping with some ESL classes, playing soccer and other sports with the community Kid’s Club, and according to our itinerary, constantly playing volleyball.  Here is the Waves of Hope Website if you would like to learn more about this incredible organization:http://www.waves-of-hope.org/.

January 14th-January 18th Back to Washington 
These few days I will be back in Tacoma, Washington preparing for the next part of my adventure!

January 19th-May 19th Dakar, Sénégal
For these 5 months I will have the opportunity to study abroad in Dakar, Senegal with the CIEE Language and Culture program.  I will be staying with a home-stay family in Dakar, taking classes at the CIEE program center, speaking a lot of French and Wolof (the native language of Sénégal), and immersing myself as much as possible in the culture.  If you have been to Sénégal please let me know, I love hearing more about it as I prepare for my trip!

May 20th-May 29th Dubrovik, Croatia
Here I will meet up with my parents in the beautiful Dubrovnik, Croatia after they finish a bike trip through the Dalmatian Coast.

May 30th-June 10th All over Central Europe
This part of my trip is still in the planning process.  The current route will be Dubrovnik to Budapest to Vienna to Salzburg to Munich and ending in Geneva.  If any of these places interest you, or you will be traveling in Europe around this time let me know, I need travel buddies!!

June 10th-July 19th Geneva, Switzerland
Hopefully for these six weeks I will be studying International Affairs and Multilateral Diplomacy in Geneva, Switzerland with an SIT program.  However, I will not know for certain until the middle of January.  If accepted, I will also live in a home-stay in Geneva, speak a lot of French, take classes, and finish with a personal research project.


“Life is a daring adventure, or nothing.” 
-Helen Keller
This is my favorite quote and I think it will help me through these next 7 months.  I can’t wait to begin this next phase in my life.  It has been hard to say goodbye to my friends and family, especially those I might not see for a very long time, but I am so thankful for their support and encouragement.  
For the next seven months this blog will be a place for me to record my adventures, interactions, and discoveries.  Feel free to follow along, and please be patient with my rambling.  

Allons-y!